Sunday, October 26, 2008

Worthy of Reflection: Writing an Engaging Peace Corps Memoir

I read four books by returned Peace Corps volunteers (RPCVs) about their Peace Corps (PC) experiences: Mike Tidwell’s The Ponds of Kalambayi (Zaire, 1985-87), George Packer’s The Village of Waiting (Togo, 1982-83), Sarah Erdman’s Nine Hills to Nambonkaha (Ivory Coast, 1998-00), and Kris Holloway’s Monique and the Mango Rains (Mali, 1989-91). I also read recommended books in similar genres: travel writing and ethnography (Colin Thubron’s Behind the Wall, Paul Theroux’s Dark Star Safari, and Martha Ward’s Nest in the Wind). My objective in this paper is to come up with a guide to writing an engaging PC memoir. This is quite the invaluable tool for my thesis, which will be my own PC memoir.

Peace Corps volunteers are in unique positions. They are not travelers – they live in one place for somewhere around two years. They are not anthropologists – they are untrained. They are not professional development workers – they are unskilled and inexperienced. They are not writers. Most are just out of college with little or no work experience of any kind. They are young Americans who put themselves under the care of the government to send them to a developing country for two years to perform jobs they have little training for and for which they are provided few resources. There is nothing else like it, at least in the States (other countries, Japan for one, have similar programs). I think the subgenre of RPCVs books deserves a closer look – as deserves any subgenre. What I hope to provide is a very minimum of what a PC memoir – just one form of writing that could come out of the experience – should offer to a reader. The rest is up to the writer’s creative mind. I do not mean to create any formal laws, merely guidelines worthy of reflection.

To begin, I’ll quote from Lee Gutkind’s guide The Art of Creative Nonfiction. In the quote, Gutkind refers to ‘readers’, a general term encompassing all levels of readers. But I would rather narrow it down to readers with an eye for good literature. So, with that in mind, it is the following which drives my paper:



Remember first and foremost, you are writing for the reader. You are undoubtedly
also writing for yourself, but the reader is not concerned with whether you
perceive the experience with satisfaction. Rather, readers care about whether
the time and effort they have invested in your writing will bear fruit. (70)

My Nine Conclusions

1) Provide probing personal reflection.

Steinberg wrote, “A lot of nonfiction writers are narrating only the literal story of the experience, and leaving out the ‘inner story,’ that is, the story of their thinking. . . How, I ask, did this experience shape you? How did it change you? What were the costs? What was at stake?” (185-7) From personal experience I know that trying to answer these questions is a lot like training for soccer. One can not easily execute a skill at first. It takes many hours of trial and error and lots of energy. Just as a footballer will physically tire after a session, so will a reflecting writer mentally tire. Yet the goal is that with practice the task becomes easier. One may never master the art but can continue to improve to the point where it appears mastered to others.

The PC Memoirs I read lacked deep reflection, though there were flashes of brilliance. For example, in The Village of Waiting, Packer recalls a time where he was sure he was having a stroke, only to find that he was instead having a nervous breakdown. Here, Packer reveals a time when he drove himself over the brink. He makes himself vulnerable to our interpretation of him – he takes a risk, and wins. The reader feels for him. The reader continues reading.
Later, Packer reveals that he quit the Peace Corps. He went home without telling anyone. As an RPCV myself, I know how hard a decision that was to make. My wife and I contemplated quitting many times. Here Packer opens himself again. This is how he ends, in his sister’s apartment in New York City, suddenly realizing what he’s done:

When I wake up, I have no idea where I am. Then, remembering, I sit up and
struggle for a way to undo everything and get back to the village and the people
who are waiting for me. (316)


Lee Gutkind has said that no one under a certain age, around 50 or so, should attempt to write a memoir. One of the main attractions of a good memoir is its depth of reflection: the writer must spend time pondering his or her life or certain parts of it and be able to see, with 20/20 hindsight, what really happened and why, how events were related, and how he or she really felt about it all.

I think I know what Gutkind meant. With time and with age comes experience. A young person may not know the joy of truly loving and being loved, or the grief of losing a loved one. Or the joy of parenthood. Or the fear that comes with responsibility. It’s true that the Peace Corps experience can mature volunteers – they see death, poverty and illness like they never have before and feel the spectrum of emotions that go with it – but the writers are still young and may not have the capacity to understand exactly what they saw or felt. Packer published his book the year after his return, at the age of twenty four. Though I could not verify their ages, Tidwell published his a year after his return, and Erdman three years after hers. Holloway had the most time, sixteen years, though I feel she fell short of conveying her reflection because she did not have the artistic skill to express it in words.

One could say that these Peace Corps writers did not write with deep reflection because they were not trying to write pure memoirs. Perhaps they were writing hybrids – say, three-fourths travel writing, one-sixth ethnography and one-twelfth memoir.

But I say this. The intention of each was to convey their experiences, to tell the readers what it was like. I don’t think anyone could argue with that. No matter what they were writing, hybrid or not, if they want us to know what it was like, they must reach deep inside and reveal what it was like to them.

I believe reflection is the most important yet least utilized tool for these memoirist, and I want to be clear here. I emphasize that a writer should admit how he or she felt. That’s somewhat vague. To be more specific, I’ll compare a memoir to a simple journalistic report. A journalist answers six questions: who, what, where, when, why and how. So must a memoirist, lest the reader ask questions. Most of these questions are answered in the books I read, but it is the question ‘Why’, which correlates to reflection, that is most neglected. Why did the protagonist join the Peace Corps in the first place? Why did he stay? Why did she knowingly ignore a local taboo? Why did she invite her friend to visit her in the States?

Like a writer of fiction would do for a character he created, a writer of nonfiction must know everything about his own character: motivations, thoughts, beliefs, wants, fears. This character will not be the writer exactly – a single book could not contain an entire character – but it must be exactly like some parts of him. A writer of fiction would not hide his character’s flaws. That revelation is what readers look for. Neither should a nonfiction writer hide his own character’s flaws. Yet, this is not as easy to do with oneself. It’s much easier to see the flaws in others – fictional or not – than it is in oneself. Then, after one’s accepted the flaws, one must then admit them to the world.

This admittance makes the writer vulnerable to the reader’s judgment of the writer. Kitchen wrote:



The writer must choose how to represent his or herself. He must realize that the
reader is going to question his preconceptions, the choices he makes (actual and
aesthetic choices), and the reader will judge the moral implications of the
choices. (182)

This vulnerability is daunting, especially to young writers, like these PC writers. I think this fear played a part in why the PC writers admitted so few of their flaws. The writers who reflected on their flaws did so in a moment, a sort of, “Look, I’ll tell you a secret, but after I tell you let’s not ever bring it up again.” This was the case for Tidwell’s admittance that he had been drinking too much. Erdman only revealed her strong side, hiding away her flaws and weaknesses. Packer provided a better example. As I’ve written, he spent a long time explaining how he felt sick, how he thought he was dying only to find he was having a mental breakdown, and then how he quit the program. Yet even with Packer the introspection only goes so deep.

Joan Didion wrote in “On Keeping a Notebook”, “We are brought up in the ethic that others, any others, all others, are by definition more interesting than ourselves.” (133) Thusly, the general public tends to be more humble than revealing, more shy than outgoing. They do not admit their flaws or illnesses nor do they admit their sadness, love or adoration. But before that they need to know these things about themselves. They must reflect.

From my own writing:



I am afraid of writing this book. I fear readers will dismiss it as childish
musings. I fear I will be accused of ineptitude and fraud - of pretending I
don’t know how inept I am. I am afraid of falling short. I am afraid of reaching
deep inside and producing something that moves no one. I am afraid of reaching
deep inside and finding nothing.

2) Express one’s feelings using comparison.

Once the writer has successfully reflected on a subject, he or she must go about putting his or her thoughts into words. If reflecting is like soccer training, then writing is like the game-day match. The exhibition. The art. The writer must express these feelings in a way readers can understand, so that they relate.

Didion wrote, “Might not Mrs. Minnie S. Brooks help me to remember who I am? Might not Mrs. Fox help me to remember who I am not?” (133) Didion was asking herself if the notes she took about those women were of any use to her. For the purposes of this paper I would like to alter her quote: “Might not a villager help the reader understand who I am? Might not a fellow volunteer help the reader understand who I am not?”

First, as an artist, the writer must come up with the most fitting words to describe feelings or scenes, characters or places. This idea is nothing new, but it should be taken seriously here, especially with PC memoirs, because the subjects are many times exotic and unfamiliar to readers. They need a description they can understand. From my own writing: “The bua trees pointed up straight into the sky like a jungle of street lights. Yet at the top the light gave way to a crown of palms. The tree’s fruit, the betel nut, hung from the crown like browned and swollen bunches of grapes.”

The writer can compare his feelings to emotions felt in the past. Once again, from my own writing:


Writing this paper, I realized, is nerve-wracking because I’m afraid readers
will think my ideas are stupid. Or that they’ve already been thought of. I get
excited when I come upon what I think is an original idea, but when it comes to
telling others, the fear sets in. I feel naked, completely vulnerable. I can
compare it to the soccer and baseball tryouts of my youth. I could only hope the
coaches saw in my performance what I saw in myself. But it’s at the end, when
the players are all gathered and the coaches call out the names or numbers of
the players they’ve chosen, and the crowd gets smaller, and I see I’m still
unpicked. It’s not making the cut that hurts the most. It’s putting myself out
there yet failing to gain acceptance.


If there is nothing the writer can compare to, he or she can speculate. That works brilliantly. Packer used this well, as did Thubron.

3) A writer should make use of pertinent research.

A researched history of the people and places helps the reader understand how things got the way they are. All of the writers I read this summer used this, some more than others. That’s probably the one area where all the PC memoirists got it right.

For example, Tidwell explained why there were fish ponds in Zaire. He reaches back into the history of the country, back to when Belgians moved in and forced the people to plant cotton. The Belgians then decided to make the people dig fish ponds in an effort to give back and maybe give the workers more protein, but they did not teach the people how to maintain the ponds, so the ponds fell out of use. In steps the Peace Corps and Tidwell.

These paragraphs of background information also act as breaks from the action. Gutkind. called the breaks ‘commercials.’ If the action is the television show, the background is the commercials in between. The pause in the action gives the reader time to reflect. From my own writing:



The Indonesians, who themselves had built all of Timor’s infrastructure, paving
roads, connecting villages with electricity and phone lines, building public
buildings, blew up and burned down what they could on their way out. That
explained the shells of buildings and poles without wires along the roads
leading south. In Same there was a roofless, whitewashed structure overtaken by
trees and grass. We could still read the faint lettering that proclaimed it a
post office.


4) Write with a theme in mind.

Gutkind has written, “Your presence. . . provides a personal context to a larger subject or issue.” (70) A story should have a theme of some sort. I’ve read that a theme need not be something one could easily articulate, but it should be easily identifiable. With PC Memoirs, the theme should relate to what the writer got out of the experience, what he or she learned, what they wanted, what they feared. It’s okay to meander in the book, discovering different feelings along the way, but the writer should concentrate these feelings into an all-encompassing idea. Else the reader come away unsure of how the writer really felt. And isn’t that what a reader wants to know? Not just what happened but how it affected the writer. This is more than a history.

How did Tidwell change? Not sure. Did he come to any significant realizations? I don’t think so. Same goes for all the PC memoirists. Thubron (Behind the Wall), on the other hand, is honestly interested in the people of China and the reader feels that Thubron was fulfilled by his journey. Writing with a theme in mind is not an easy task. It involves, first, deep reflection. The writer must reflect on his or her experience and then identify a single idea that describes the overall feeling. Perhaps it was a feeling of ineptitude, or a feeling of wonder. This has been one of my problems. Readers come away from my work saying the writing was good but they did not understand what it was about. My theme was unclear to them because it was unclear to me. Perhaps these PC memoirists had the same problem. As I’ve mentioned, I think one’s capacity to understand one’s feelings comes with age and experience.

Next, once the writer has indentified the theme, he or she must craft the book in a way that ties the many experiences together by this theme. It will probably require many drafts and rewrites as the writer discovers sections that do not fit the theme as written. Or perhaps the sections will not fit the theme at all and do not belong. This skill comes with writing experience, which these PC memoirists lacked.

5) Compelling characterization is a must.

According to Hildebrand, when the author Tracy Kidder researched his book about schools, “He wasn’t looking for the best teacher. He was looking for the best character.” (175) A story of any genre needs memorable characters, and here, as in many areas, PC memoirists can learn from writers of fiction. Character development is extremely important yet was too often overlooked in the PC memoirs. The reader must have a reason to feel for the characters if they are to read on. These feelings come from getting to know the characters.

Dufresne has written, “Characters speak and they become.” (197) They also act and become. This is what a writer wants, for his or her characters to become, to live. Writers want these characters to affect the reader.

Looking at all the books, Packer does a good job of self-characterization and Holloway is second best, better for her characterization of Monique and then for herself. Yet, Holloway is the only writer to introduce a fellow PCV (it happens to be her romantic interest, who she ends up marrying and acknowledging as her “Consulting Editor” for the book). As a reader I want to get to know these characters, and as a RPCV I know how large a part these people played in the experience. Leaving them out or underdeveloped leaves the reader wanting more. When I finished each of these books, I tried to think back to what stuck, what stories and characters stayed with me. Few characters ‘survived’ the books. Instead there are only bits and pieces of a young man here, a baby there. I could not recall their names or faces. A writer of a PC memoir should want their characters to live on – that is why he or she writes.

6) Remember pacing and structure.

Harvey wrote in Fourth Genre, “The facts, the events, the invented flights of fancy do not make up a work of art. The shapeliness of the author’s composition takes us to that level.” (140) A story of any genre, including nonfiction, needs effective pacing and structure.

Looking back, Erdman has the poorest overall structure. More than the others, she jumped back and forth without connecting ideas. Holloway had a problem with pacing. There were a few times where she slowed the action – I can recall when she spills coffee on herself and when she and John get on a motorcycle – but she slows down to describe minute details in meaningless situations. This technique worked better when she described women in labor and other dramatic scenes. Most of the time the writers tended to write with one speed: fast. Months were brushed over in a paragraph, as if the writers were eager only to finish. Instead of telling the reader everything that happened, one should decide which stories are worth retelling and retell those stories only, taking one’s time, slowing the pace to focus the reader.

Gutkind champions the use of frames to structure nonfiction. I mentioned the ‘commercials’ earlier. In between the ‘commercials’ are stories. Gutkind also likes to begin each section with a scene near the end of a story, then backtrack to earlier events before ending with the end of the story. He says this keeps the reader engaged, wanting to know what happens.

7) For Pete’s sake, write with a sense of humor.

I’m not saying this just because I like to laugh, but because I know that laughter was a part of PC life. If PCVs didn’t laugh – daily – then they would go crazy or go home. Usually both. It’s such a stressful experience that you have to counteract the extremely frustrating with the unbelievably funny. If the writer is going to be honest (and he or she should, as I’ve written), then the writer must have a sense of humor.

But the humor should not be used at the expense of the experience. I recently read a piece by travel writer Redmond O’Hanlon called “Amazon Adventure”. His over-use of humor took away from the experience of the journey. It seemed he didn’t take anything seriously, though he was constantly putting his friend’s life and the lives of his guides in danger. Similarly, Theroux (Dark Star Safari) cynically joked so much that I began to loathe the read. I think Bill Bryson and Thubron provide better examples of how to use humor. It’s self-deprecating and light hearted and used in the right amount.

Holloway, like the others, jokes here and there, but their books were far too sober, far too stoic. There’s one hilarious account; I only wish there were more like it:



The tale begins with workers driving off a feisty donkey, but one projectile
found a most surprising target. It stuck in the beast’s anus. The donkey gulped
in mid-bray. . . John and the workers fell to the ground and slapped themselves
as they exploded with laughter. The more the donkey worked at dislodging the
stone, the more the men responded. They had trouble breathing. Some coughed. . .
For months, John heard the men recounting the story to one another, picking up
stones as props and mimicking the donkey’s actions. (141)


PC memoirs are downers already to the reader – PCVs are living with the poor and dying people of the most underdeveloped countries on the planet – the least we can do as writers is give them a break from the sadness:



We took Jay and Aaron to meet our new Aussie friends, Emma and Phil. We joined
them on the second floor balcony of the home they were renting. They had thick
Aussie accents and were always making jokes, and Bekah and I took to them like
thirsty travelers to a spring. Emma was short and stout with a prominent cleft
in her chin and Phil was tall and lanky and his head was forever crooning
forward. He had dark black hair that he styled with a wooshing curl at the
front.
Later, when we took our leave and were down the road Jay said:

“I couldn’t understand a word they said. The whole time all I could do
was stare at his hair.”

And that’s how I remember Phil. With a grin and that
wooshing curl.


8) Make a grand entrance.

The writer should grab the reader early and never let go. The memoirs I read had intriguing beginnings, but my interest waned as I read on. This entrance should set a tone that will carry throughout the book. Perhaps it is sad, or funny, perhaps the character is contemplative or nervous. It can be debated whether or not these books set and maintained those tones.

Here’s a personal example of a grand entrance:



There is a small plane that flies back and forth from Lake Charles’ Regional
Airport to Houston’s Bush Intercontinental. There are two rows of seats on one
side and a single row across the aisle. The airport is also small. The
passengers are mostly business people who fly back on the evening flight, so
there are few people in the airport to see them off.

But today there was
a crowd. Some of the crowd were in tears.

They watched as the plane
began to taxi.

Inside the plane, on the fourteenth row, on the side with
two rows of seats, a young married couple huddled together. They cried softly.
The man wiped his eyes and squeezed his wife’s arm. He could see her eyes were
red.

“What are we doing?” she said softly.

“I don’t know,” the
man said.

They looked at each other and laughed.

The man wiped
his eyes again and pulled a white paper bag from under the seat in front of him.
Grease spots at the bottom. It was a bag of donuts from the man’s former
supervisor, who had been part of the crowd seeing them off.

“Do you want
one?” he said.

“I’m not hungry.”

The man took a bite.

That was me and my wife, Bekah. The crowd in the airport was my parents and brothers, Bekah’s mom, sisters, brother and niece, and my former supervisor. We were headed to Los Angeles for Peace Corps Staging.

9) Leave the reader with a lasting image.

The book should end with something for the reader to remember – an image that represents the entire experience. Some endings become more famous than the story itself. The end of Romeo and Juliet, for example, or Thelma and Louise. The PC memoir obviously won’t end with a dramatic suicide, as these examples did, and they need not end with a surprise, but they should have an impact.

I’d like to look at Tidwell’s ending. For me, this is the best Tidwell’s book has to offer:



Near Tshibumba Creek, it began to rain. Mbaya got into the Land Rover, and I put
on my raincoat and kept riding, raindrops popping against my chest and arms.
Beads of water gathered on the speedometer glass as I rode. I glanced down at
the beads. They were clear and empty. There were no fish inside them as Kayemba
had once believed; no baby tilapia falling from the sky. There was just water.
Just empty rainwater. (276)


Erdman’s ended well herself:



My lamplight wavers. For two years it has lit my nights, lit my students
crouched around their shivery rows of letters, lit dinner in pots on the stove,
lit faces outside my screen. I lift my pen from the page. The fire sputters and
stretches, searching for fresh wick. Then with a soft sigh, the flame goes out.
(309)


I could give an example of my own, but I don’t want to give it away. The endings I copied here are only a paragraph, but a lasting image can be longer.

Final Thoughts

Perhaps I should end on this note. It’s from Pearson’s “The Other Creative Writing”:


The best nonfiction bestows a range of pleasures: it offers both information and
stories, the specific size and shape of experiences and a glimpse of its
mysterious soul. . . Nonfiction writers can use words with the force of poetry,
they can shape characters syllable by syllable until we feel that we know them
better than we know ourselves, they can carve landscapes out of blank space:
artistic nonfiction can reach into us as deeply as any literature. And it has
the added power of being about actual people and real events. (31-2)


Just because these PC memoirs were published doesn’t mean they were well-written. Publishers do not care about the quality of the writing but about whether they think the story will sell. It was not my intention to provide a guide to writing merely a publishable PC memoir but one that excels in artistic quality. I chose to insert some of my own writing because I could not always find good examples from these books. Yet, both Tidwell and Packer are successful writers today, and I am sure that if they re-wrote their PC memoirs the books would be much more to my liking.

I stressed personal reflection the most because I felt the books thrived when the reflection came through and faltered when it didn’t. It may or may not have come through to you, the reader, but my overall feeling was of disappointment. I wanted much more out of my fellow PC volunteers. I feel they did not do the experience the justice it deserves. Perhaps they rushed themselves, eager to get it all down before they forgot. Or maybe it was too much to process, too many feelings to understand. Either way, I think if they had been more patient, spent more time with their stories, they would have created something lasting and invaluable to the world of literature. I can only hope to live up to my own ideals.

Works Cited

Didion, Joan. “On Keeping a Notebook.” Slouching Towards Bethlehem. New York: Farrar, 1990.
Dufresne, John. The Lie That Tells the Truth. New York: Norton, 2003.
Erdman, Sarah. Nine Hills to Nambonkaha. New York: Picador, 2003.
Gutkind, Lee. The Art of Creative Nonfiction. New York: Wiley, 1997.
Harvey, Steven. “The Art of Self.” Fourth Genre Spring 1999: 140-142.
Hildebrand, John. “Roundtable: Character in Nonfiction.” Fourth Genre: 169-186.
Holloway, Kris. Monique and the Mango Rains. Long Grove, Il: Waveland, 2007.
Kitchen, Judith. “Roundtable: Character in Nonfiction.” Fourth Genre: 169-186.
Packer, George. The Village of Waiting. New York: Farrar, 2001.
Pearson, Michael. “The Other Creative Nonfiction.” The Writer’s Chronicle September 2000: 31-33.
Steinberg, Michael. “Finding the Inner Story in Memoirs and Personal Essays.” Fourth Genre Spring 2003: 185-188.
Theroux, Paul. Dark Star Safari. New York: Penguin, 2003.
Thubron, Colin. Behind the Wall. New York: Penguin, 1987.
Tidwell, Mike. The Ponds of Kalambayi. Guilford, Connecticut: Lyons, 1988.
Ward, Martha. Nest in the Wind. Long Grove, Il: Waveland, 2005.

Saturday, July 26, 2008

Ward gave me some good ideas

I learned a few good things from this read.

First, she impressed me by writing economically from the get go. The Intro gives us the background of the project. She makes a dramatic entrance, too: she takes a sip of kava at a feast and picks her teeth. It’s always important to make an entrance. And Ward proves my theory that humor is important. What’s most memorable about the book is the humor in the first few chapters. There’s the honesty, too. On page 62 she admits that she should have been doing one thing but does another. She does this later, as well. It shows an honest reflection. Later, she is honest another way: she reprints letters she wrote home at the time. This gives me the genuine feelings of the author that are hard to replicate years later when writing the book.

As she begins her follow-up, I get excited. It appears she will now reflect on her trip and how it affects her everyday life now. I applaud the idea, but it does not live up to expectations. Instead, she slips into her anthropological mode and loses me completely.

Which leads me to the elements that should not be repeated. In the Intro Ward says a few things that she intends to do in the book:

(3)"I wish to evoke images, a sense of immediacy, and the feeling that you are there with me - that you are a participant and observer. I hint at the realities between the dots of the painting and make no effort to analyze each dot. This is not an official ethnography or history. It is only a true story about the doing of fieldwork and the doing of anthropology."

She did not stick to the game plan: she tried to make us feel like we where there but failed (this goes along with comments I've made before - the best exposition can not make me feel it, but a good story can – plus, it’s best to keep it simple, with one or two ideas per sentence), she very much did make an effort to analyze each dot (giving us pages of analysis, especially at the end), and because of the analysis the book became an anthropological work instead of a story (with a few pages of exceptions). Moreover, this inaccurate intro is an example of what not to write: don't promise anything you can't deliver.

Another minus – she elected not to use any space breaks. I saw two problems with this. First, one idea ran into the next, confusing me as I tried to find the ties. Second, the continuous flow gives the reader no time to reflect. There was a certain scene where the lack of a break stood out – page 92, where her friend’s body is taken up a hill.

There’s the spouse issue, too. I was hopeful that I could get a good example of how to include my wife in my story, but Ward’s husband is less than a flat character – he’s little more than a name.

She does end with a nice line, though:

(119) "You who hear my tale should listen very carefully and straighten it out for yourself. Sometimes what I say is not straight."

That is, that's where it ended in the first edition.

Chapter 11 - Our World Itself is an Island

same as Chapter 10

Chapter 10 - It Takes an Outrigger to Float a Canoe

(150) I am confused and tired of this academic speech

Chapter 9 - You Cannot Hate with Kava in You

(130) Ward spends too much time on tiny details - hoping to "put us there" - instead I am confused and bored - much like public radio news, she should write with only one or two ideas per sentence.

(131) "Thanks to the Peace Corps of my generation, the water seal toilets there will work for hundreds of years..."

(134) "Pohnpiens are my model for raising my daughter."

(136) the evils of tourism - not yet there

(137) betel nut - she mentions it often now but it somehow escaped the first trip's account (138) she says they didn't chew until independence - though she fails to mention how she learned to chew it

(139-40) Ward chooses to spend much of this chapter giving data on the island - less on her own experience - she has become a true anthropologist

Chapter 8 - Between Times

this seems a brilliant idea - she reflects on her story "in the now," in the present - "I ask - what would Pohnpeins do?"

(121) 'They also reported that after I had left, my adopted family gave a feast and ate my plump dog..."

(123) her work produced no published results -the project failed, at least partly

(123) "Between those two brackets of loss, I happened upon a space that was mine alone and decided to write this book."

she was there 1970-2, began writing in 1985, first published 1989 - yet it's so rich (up to this point) - good notes and good writing - perhaps distance equals productive, deep reflection that comes with age and experience

Chapter 7 - The Core of a Mangrove Log

(105) "I could have questioned her about the techniques she was using, how had she learned them, what were the names of the fish she caught, what did women do that men did not and why. Instead, I helped."

thoughtful and it's a great way to explain yourself, your actions, which are not always easy to explain: "I don't know, I could have..."

small scenes mixed with exposition and reflection

Roger her husband has disappeared - less than flat

(119) "You who hear my tale should listen very carefully and straighten it out for yourself. Sometimes what I say is not straight." brilliant

Chapter 6 - The Ends of Canoes

(86) after attending to sick Sohn - "Late that night, I realized I had just celebrated my thirtieth birthday."

(86) "Following the impulse to which humans in pain and grief are prone, we decided to try anything."

(86-7) Sohn's lung cancer diagnosis - Ward goes right into the sorcery pursued by the family but skips over her feelings about her friend given a year to live - leaving this out makes it seem like it didn't happen - that she didn't feel - which makes this less a personal story

(89-90) goes over problems with the census, name changes, etc.

(91) since writers set to writing after the fact, they lose many of the genuine, particular feelings and must rely on general feelings or a distant version of a particularly strong emotion - Ward reprints letters which still capture the genuine feeling - "Remind them that formulas and computer programs look very different when your feet have turned permanently auburn and you are washing clothes on a rock."

(92) "My capacity for denial is immense, and no one had ever spoken to me like this." - on Sohn's deathbed, she feels now though I chided her for not doing it earlier

(91-2) beautifully crafted scene - Sohn taken up the mountain - though a space break would have been fitting

Chapter 5 - A Locked Box

(71-2) incest taboo researched

(76) Pohnpei religion - "Try telling Washington bureaucrats or statisticians that God creates the budgets for heart disease research."

Chapter 4 - Smoke Follows the High People

(55) her lack of space breaks is a negative - one topics runs to the next; when I realize this I have to backtrack - breaks give the reader time to process

(61) "I should have written down what kind of leaf we used to carry our tribute; anthropologists are supposed to record details like that. But my mind was preoccupied..."

I like this frankness - I could have, should have, but didn't

(62) comparisons to US adoptions and young parents

(67) "How much good do [PCV's] do? But they are such committed, intelligent kids; in the main they make a great impression on the Micronesians and will be super citizens when they return home."

Chapter 3 - Water Running Under Boulders

settling into a new house - toilet story

(40) Sohn Alpet comes to teach them to speak respectfully

(42) delays - but they are resourceful

(45) a fest put on by Sohn - Ward hears that it was to clear a curse on them

(46) Ward begins to believe in the magic

(46) one problem - she refers to messages sent over the radio - what radio? she has left an important thing unsaid

ends all chapters with letters

Chapter 2 - Green Leaves on Stories

(23) open, honest, funny - "I dropped my fantasy life, vowed never to enter the open ocean again, and prayed to the gods who protect naive anthropologists. Ian reported that my pulse rate was climbing."

(24) brief though engaging scene - ghosts on a path

(26) "Preserved breadfruit tastes like exotic, very ripe cheese and will never replace Hershey bars."

(27-8) "They kept repeating the question until I gave them a satisfactory answer.
'My mother is watching my pig.'" - funny

(29-30) thorough description of sexual relations in Pohnpei - (31-2) uses PC stories for examples

(34) I've noticed that Ward included herself here and there - spending many pages on this and that custom/description, history. she may have hit upon a nice balance of the two - while she herself has not done much yet (arrived, sat in on ceremonies, travelled to the other side of the isle by boat) - it is not her story as such that is the focus

Chapter 1 - Fruit in the Hands of the Gods

(5) creation story

(6) first we see of the author (after the intro) - she drinks kava and then picks her teeth - a grand entrance, I like that

(6) compares the kava drinking to communion - I get it - nice work, economic, descriptive

(7) nice - she admits she must have Western surroundings to be comfortable

(8) culture shock explained - examples

(11) "The beginning of the 1970's was neither the time nor the place to be proud of being an American." Vietnam, Kent State

(13-4) her domesticity

(14-5) Floyd is a strange character - "I am not sure we convinced Floyd that just as people choose to trace decent through their father's line, they can equally choose to trace it through their mother's line. But I did succeed in keeping clan membership in the questionnaire."

(19) ends with a letter home

a sort of random chapter - covered many topics - abrupt changes - though all about adjusting

Ward's Nest - Intro

(I have decided to read Nest in the Wind instead of finishing The Spirit Catches You because of the near-absence of the author as a character. This was too different from Peace Corps memoir to compare.)

(2) background economically written

(3)"I wish to evoke images, a sense of immediacy, and the feeling that you are there with me - that you are a participant and observer. I hint at the realities between the dots of the painting and make no effort to analyze each dot. This is not an official ethnography or history. It is only a true story about the doing of fieldwork and the doing of anthropology."

She wrote the above but did not stick to the game plan: she tried to make us feel like we where there but failed (this goes along with comments I've made before - the best exposition can not make me feel it, but a good story can), she very much did make an effort to analyze each dot (giving us pages of analysis, especially at the end), and because of the analysis the book became an anthropological work instead of a story (with a few pages of exceptions).

Moreover, this inaccurate intro is an example of what not to write: don't promise anything you can't deliver.

I want to add, though, that I enjoyed the book for the most part and would recommend emulating parts.

Saturday, July 19, 2008

5 - Take as Directed

(40) uses lots of block quotes

(51) examples of miscommunication in other cases

4 - Do Doctor's Eat Brains?

(33-4) covers misconceptions on both sides

tale of failed and successful programs in Hmong refugee camp hospitals

3 - The Spirit Catches You and You Fall Down

(21) Hmong with epilepsy often made healers: "The fact that they have been ill themselves gives them an intuitive sympathy for the suffering of others and lends them emotional credibility as healers."

(21-2) Fadiman has found many accounts of people - missionaries, ethnographers, anthropologists - studying the Hmong, a hidden-away people. On pgs 18-9 she even quotes what sounds like a hard-to-find text

(22) only one person at the hospital - a social worker - asked the Lees what they thought - they said the spirit caused it

(26) after recapping the hospital story and interpreter problems - we begin with Lia's first emergency room visit - a misdiagnosis

(26 Dr.'s "interest still exceeds his knowledge."

2 - Fish Soup

History of Hmong people - begins by saying all Hmong stories are long, uses an example of a French class speech about Fish Soup

*But I wonder how this is auto-ethnography -I don't see the author yet

the point here seems to be connecting ideas - where PC memoirs are chronological tales

Chapter is a thorough history - successfully demonstrates the independent streak of the Hmong

1 - Birth

(3) I'm captivated already

(3-5) wonderful, well-researched account of Hmong cultural beliefs about birthing

(19) Fadiman has provided much detail as to the Hmong traditions at childbirth - and how a few Hmong adapted in America [for example, she says Foua ate a post-partum soup "with five special post-partum herbs (which the Lees had grown for this purpose on the edge of the parking lot behind their apartment building)."]

Fadiman's The Spirit Catches You

Preface - nice use of a frame story (about cassette tapes)

there's a note on Hmong orthography in the back, plus notes on sources

Holloway - Some good stuff, some falling short

This was a little different. It was short – 200 pages – and it focused more on another character, namely Monique. I noticed a few good things and a few bad.

She begins by receiving the invite and then giving a history of the country, Mali. This works. Starting from the beginning is a good thing. Giving us some background is very good. The earlier the better, I think.

I made this note in chapter one about character development:

“I could be wrong, but it seems so important to describe the main character of a story early on (in this case Holloway herself and then Monique) - or else the reader must make it up - going on the little provided - for example all I know of Holloway is she's 22, from Ohio, this is her first birth, she's a PCV in Mali and she's nervous - it annoys me that I have only a vague idea of what the writers look like - Tidwell, Packer, Erdman, Thubron, Theroux and now Holloway) - I write this thinking of characters in fiction”

Holloway introduces John, a fellow PCV who she has some interest in. I liked this. For the first time, we get to hear about fellow volunteers. Others may not understand this problem I have with this, but as a Returned PCV I know how key the relationships with fellow volunteers was to survival. They kept you sane. Holloway mentions many PCVs marry fellow PCVs, but what about the inevitability that the volunteer stationed nearest you becomes your best friend, even if you’d never have gotten along otherwise.

This is small, but I’m glad Holloway takes time, in chapter three, to describe being sick. I think all the others do this as well, but like the friendships, the illness is key to the story. PCVs are sick and scared all the time. This is truth.

I have two notes in chapter four I ‘d like to cover. One good, one bad. The bad is when Holloway, out of nowhere, “zooms in” on a scene and we suddenly get her spilling coffee, being clumsy. This is a good thing, actually, if done more often. But on its own it only brought questions as to why she chose to do that (it happens once more in chapter six when John gets on his bike).

The good is where she is honest with her feelings about death. She goes to a funeral and flashes back to her Granny’ funeral. The feelings of helplessness at the dead person’s side is honest. This reaching back into her memory, to make sense of things out of what she knows, is a flash of brilliance. A small flash. This should be done more, as well, actually.

In chapter six I noticed something new. The other memoirs may have had this though I missed it, but Holloway, perhaps inadvertently, uses an almost imperceptible time marker – the growth of Monique’s baby Basil. Holloway will give brief descriptions of Basil chapter after chapter. And somehow this grounds the reader – like milestones. It seems these are key. If I am to see the writer grow and change, I need these milestones to measure. I think this is important.

Two things in chapter eight. I thought Holloway failed to make John a round character, though I think he should have been. Second, she brings up a hilarious anecdote about a donkey, and though it made me laugh I then became depressed because I realized that was all I was going to get. In case I haven’t mentioned this before, I feel strongly that PC memoirs should have much, much more humor. Each book had a tad – mostly embarrassing things – but, damn, I know that humor was one of the other keys to survival (food, drink, clothing, shelter, PC friends and laughter being the list). Times were hard, man. The highs were high and the lows were low. And if you didn’t laugh, you went crazy or went home, many times both.

Chapter ten was Holloway leaving. Though she mused over what she’d miss, the feelings didn’t come through. This stood in stark contrast to the last chapter, in which a seemingly older, more mature writer emerges and writes honestly of her feelings:

"I thought, desperately, selfishly, that if only she had stayed with me in the States, and had never some back to Mali, she might be alive today." (194)

I got the feeling that Holloway wrote most of the book when she was still young and the last chapter when she finally went to get it published, seven years later. Whatever the reason, this is good stuff.

Recapping: good is grounding the reader (with background info, with milestones along the way), fleshing out/developing the main characters, being truthful and thorough (acknowledge the illness, the friendships/bonds with Fellow PCVs, making sense of the world based on past experiences); bad was ‘zooming in’ on a scene randomly (do it all the time or not at all – find the balance or something), leaving out the humor (don’t make the thing too serious – you’re no saint), failing to convey your feelings.

11 - Return

(181) "I saw my world through her eyes." M in America

(184-5) H gets the letter - 9 years later - she decided to reprint to letter in the book without reflection - I liked it, actually (she reflects some afterwards, on her visit)

(185) somehow it seems her writing has matured in this chapter, most notably after the break on page 185 - thoughtful musings and small scenes and motions weave together

this is by far her best work

(194) an example of deep reflection - "I thought, desperately, selfishly, that if only she had stayed with me in the States, and had never some back to Mali, she might be alive today."

(199) now M is round, complete

10 - My Feet are Dancing

(165-6) H reflects on her favorite things in Mali - "where you spent time greeting and joking rather than avoiding others because of a busy schedule."

H and John plan to take M to the US

(167-8) M thought she rode on the outside of the plane and feared going

(170) I still think John is two-dimensional at best - while it is important to describe characters, the most important characters need to be round

(170-3) M's boss comes in one night to tell the village M should receive her own money - this was due to H's pressure - M is happy but i still feel the objective of making M a real person who I should care about falls just short, barely

(175) Packer: "A tinge of jealousy whipped through me and I thought of someone else working with Monique."

(180) "I savored the feeling of being here, of knowing this place" REWRITE - I knew this place, I thought. I will miss it.

9 - The Work is Good

(162-3) birthing house progress - now that M has taken a little vacation, 'le gar' visits the clinic and tells H he is building a kitchen for M - this is good drama (H believes le gar is afraid of losing M)

8 - Cool Resting Place

(139) John. for example, is a perfect man - though not real - sure he's scared of scorpions but he's devoid of feelings - I want him fleshed out more

(141) a hilarious anecdote - more of these, please (donkey trouble)

(152-3) sad, M's friend was killed, she bawled

7 - Coup d'Etat

(125-6) A woman comes in for a treatment for gonorrhea (STD) - M is angry because she doesn't pay and the man won't treat himself

(126-7) Project slows - workers want food and beer

(127-9) H received info on circumcision - gives the horrid side effects, including a 'false vagina'

(130-1) circumcision talk turns to pleasure and sex - M admits she was raped and so does H - but she does not take the opportunity to explain, purge

(132) evacuation looms

(135) H and M trim down the budget to make it possible to buy food

(136-7) H reflects on her vegetarianism and how her ideas have changed

(137-8) they plan to ask their family back home to help with money

this differs from other PC memoirs in that H focuses on one person - M - much more that the others - this it is more an ethnography -a memoir, by definition, is a person's own story

6 - Cutting

(107) "I was used to depending on Monique, and now I saw that she, too, had come to depend on me." - M is in a bind and only H can know about it - they are close

(107-11) a detailed account of H's friend Korotun's birthing

(112-4) H had not been aware that all the women were circumcised - but she finds out when talking to M, who admits circumcision makes birthing harder (the opening is smaller) and M thought every woman in the world was circumcised until H told her otherwise

i just realized that Erdman's midwife also secretly takes birth control pills - and both she and M have well-spaces and healthy children

(115) H has used an almost imperceptible time marker - M's baby Basil - who we can see growing - on M's back, then walking

(120) Once again H zooms in, in close detail - this time as she gets on a motorbike with John - but why here and why now?

(121) rumors of evacuation

(128) an example of inadequacy: "I felt an uncontrollable change coming. Like we had inadvertently fallen into something bigger than ourselves. Something unpredictable." This is a vague description that does not evoke any emotion from me - just cliche

5 - A Coming Storm

I still wonder: what makes this any different from a PC Memoir?

(86-8) prenatal visits, M tells H a mother died the night before in childbirth

(88-9) H questions Am. birthing practices (we find out later she has her two boys later in life with midwives)

(91) another nice African rain description

(96-7) birth control discussed

4 - The Old Friend

(67) novel-like feel here all of a sudden - she focuses attention on her clumsiness - trying to shoo a fly while spilling coffee on herself - while M talks - I think this would have been a good thing to use throughout the book

(64-7) good - H goes to a funeral where the deceased lays on the ground, dressed up - H then recalls the recent funeral of her grandmother - why is this good She is opening up - no cliches or generalizations, simply "I remembered standing on front of the casket during viewing hours, wanting to make some special gesture of parting, but I couldn't lay a hand on Granny. I could look at death, in a sky blue dress, but could not touch it." (66) - honesty, no matter how naive, is best

(67) more - she danced with the mourners

(79) attends a Catholic mass: "It appeared that Catholicism had picked up a distinct Malian flavor."

(81-3) M's salary taken by father-in-law

3 - Behind Korotun's Scarf

(48) a man will not let his wife rest after labor and other abuse

(55) as Holloway's house is built, she and M talk to chief about rebuilding the birth house with USAID money

(58-9) Giardia - she zooms in on a scene where she deals with her illness, the actions and the fatigue, embarrassment

2 - Weighing Babies and Eating Dogs

(25-7) she picks chickpeas and cotton with the chief

*someone told me anthropology stems from travel writing

(29) baby weighing at clinic - Monique: "I told her and the other mothers about the importance of not weaning abruptly, and about the importance of putting more time between their pregnancies. They are very, very common problems here." - Holloway uses M's voice to explain

(33-35) language faux pax and bra incentive for a woman to weigh her child

(35-6) John visits and she battles with her feelings for him

*is this nothing more than a PC Memoir?

(38-41) John returns - I am happy to see another PCV - the real PC as I know it - and the romance (so basic a need out there, some lovin')

(44) briefly mentions Monique can tell when her baby on her back needs to 'go'

1- Woman's Birthing House

sensory details - smell of birthing house (6)

describes the bare, simple room, adds, "So this was childbirth in rural Mali in the late 20th Century." (7)

decent description of birth (7-8) - the woman's pushing, Monique's urging, the baby coming, Holloway in shock

fatigued, thinking of maternity death rate (8-9)

"It may be good for the village, and good for the baby. But was it good for the mother?" (10) she asks about the high birth rate

names the child! (10)

* I could be wrong, but it seems so important to describe the main character of a story early on (in this case Holloway herself and then Monique) - or else the reader must make it up - going on the little provided - for example all I know of Holloway is she's 22, from Ohio, this is her first birth, she's a PCV in Mali and she's nervous - it annoys me that I have only a vague idea of what the writers look like - Tidwell, Packer, Erdman, Thubron, Theroux and now Holloway) - I write this thinking of characters in fiction

Brief bio sketch - overview (11)

like The Ethnographic I, this book is written by an untrained writer - and I cringe (11)

her bathing routine - will she discover how the women deal with menstruation? pagnes! (14)

Monique describes how she became the town's midwife and health worker and Holloway stresses the town's luck (17)

a bit of culture - religion, families - Holloway asks to help cook (21)

Monique mentions her marriage is bad (24)

Holloway's Monique - Intro

Begins with Mali's history, present condition (poor)

says she knew some of this before but not all the friends and experiences she would have: "I couldn't have known any of this, for all I had was a slip of paper, an invitation to join, a sliver of promise." (3)

Thursday, July 17, 2008

Theroux, Oi, Such a Writer!

I’ll begin like this: I was unfulfilled by this book and there are not many things I can say a Peace Corps Memoir (or any book, for that matter) should emulate.

To start, he gives a poor reason for taking the trip. He says, “I wanted the pleasure of being in Africa again.” (1) But should a PC memoir do this? The reason should be there, but I think it should be better than Theroux’s. And if it isn’t – I knew a few PCVs who just wanted a break from the “real world” – make me believe it. I didn’t believe Theroux, ever, which was part of the problem.

Throughout, Theroux likes to talk about his writing. This is the only thing I think a PC memoir should copy. He starts, on the first page, “Such a paragraph needs some explanation – at least a book; this book perhaps.” The meta-lit is an old technique. I’ve seen it in old traveler’s tales. I actually like it. It’s engaging at times. I’ve noted that meta-lit should be part of PC memoir because it’s part of the story. It’s a large part, one that is too large to ignore, so large that if left out it leaves a gaping hole.

I made a note around page 285: “Harasses aid workers again – this and the topic that Africa can take care of itself is repeated over and over as if it is new.” Sometimes repeating something is a good thing, but it seemed to me Theroux made one draft of this book and didn’t reread it. It feels like Theroux is forcing a theme –the stupidity of aid-workers or the belief in self-reliance – here and there (over and over), but the real theme is that there is no theme. He’s just taking a trip. And unlike other respected works of literature, this book lacks an overall, obvious theme. And a theme is needed to grab and ground the reader, to impress and inspire the reader.

I made a note about honest writing while reading the fourteenth chapter: “This is the chapter where he feels the most, puts forth the most emotion - perhaps why I was annoyed with the read at other times: he's just a passerby, little attachment, just an observer – but can a travel writer do otherwise? Thubron didn't get emotional much either, but his book was good. Perhaps it was his genuine interest in the people, the culture, the history - he felt a need to understand and the reader could tell. Theroux did have a sort of bond with the continent, too, though he showed it by being, well, a wiener.”

By “wiener” I mean he was mean to people. Whereas Thubron truly took interest in the people he wrote about, a feature which drew me in to the text, Theroux instead jokes and berates them. Perhaps it’s just me, but that turned me right off. Confrontations, belittling, these things are unfavorable in reading as well as in real life – I don’t want to be around it.

I made this note in chapter 19: “ ‘How nice it would be, I thought, if someone reading the narrative of my African trip felt...it was the next best thing to being there.’ (406) I find myself tired of this journey, anxious for its end - I know he wants the reader to feel "as if they were there," but I don't think this reader-fatigue was what he had in mind.”

It’s something to strive for, though, right? I’m not so sure, if he means engaging the senses. I’m thinking of great books: Hemingway’s For Whom the Bell Tolls and Dillard’s Pilgrim at Tinker Creek. I didn’t feel I was in Spain or at Tinker Creek, but I was swept up in the story of the one and the musings of the other. The next best thing is reading a great story. Which might even be a better thing.

(Theroux would hate to read that I compared his work to Hemingway's - he makes a point to berate Hemingway's depiction of "safari Africa.")

I made a note, as I read this first chapter, “This seems to be quite the ambitious travel book – 500 pages – can he keep my interest for so long?” But I did not enjoy myself at the end. I just wanted to finish. Perhaps that’s why I enjoyed chapter 21 so little: “Unlike Thubron, who does not describe every detail of his journey, Theroux does, though in general terms: ‘Maputo appeared as a succession of outlying shanty towns and soon we were traveling from one district to another, with not much improvement in the look of things.’ (440-1) - perhaps that's why it's 500 pgs. . . flirts and debates with a pretty missionary on an antique Mozambican train for 7 pages - too long.”

I felt he was taunting me by writing about this girl for so long. I could not believe he kept going. These two notes I will remember: detailing everything gets tiresome and chatting with one person so very uninteresting for too long at the end of the book is bad.

So: giving unbelievable reasons for going, pushing unbelievable themes, repressing your true feelings, being unapologetically mean, trying too hard to make the reader “feel they were there,” and cramming in too many details, thus dragging the reader along too many pages – all bad things.

Good thing: talk about your writing.

Because my comments have been mostly negative, I want to add something. I know Theroux is a respected and award-winning writer who deserves our respect. I want to be clear that I respect him for these things. My above comments are not meant to belittle Theroux the man, or author. They are merely a graduate student's observations.

Sunday, July 13, 2008

23 - Blue Train Blues

"I was clinging to Africa because I had not wanted it to end." (493)

he loses everything but the notes for this book in a theft

ends with a reflective paragraph: "The kindest Africans had not changed at all and even after all these years the best of them are bare-assed." (494)

22 - The Trans-Karoo Express to Cape Town

finds Gordimer's novel July's People has been black-listed: "it does not encourage good grammatical practice." cited (460) - Theroux wrote to the paper

pg 461: he reflects again on his trip to procrastinate the end - but the reflection is a mere list of the people he met, and I couldn't remember most

goes to a squatter camp though warned against it; begins by telling story of Am. girl killed there and how her parents forgave the killers - but this moving, heartbreaking story has been overshadowed by Theroux's blatant, flagrant disregard for safety; why does he stress how dangerous squatter camps are just to go, without explanation; he swears off minibuses and stays in at night and avoids "bad people," but here he makes an exception, blatantly - I am not happy

meets with a former resident of a peaceful, multi-racial, French Quarter0like community called District Six - it was taken over during apartheid

walked to sea and sees a sign that says "end of trail"

21 - Faith, Hope and Charity on the Limpopo Line

funny bus ride to Mozambique - watching the movie Jack he gets emotional - I enjoy the seeing the cracks in his armor

unlike Thubron, who does not describe every detail of his journey, Theroux does, though in general terms: "Maputo appeared as a succession of outlying shanty towns and soon we were traveling from one district to another, with not much improvement in the look of things." (440-1) - perhaps that's why it's 500 pgs

flirts and debates with a pretty missionary on an antique Mozambican train for 7 pages - too long

20 - The Wild Things at Mala Mala

says the most dangerous animals he saw were bandits ans the most exotic hookers

he goes on a safari after berating those who go on them the entire book

continues to compare humans to wild animals, prey and predator

met up with Mike Rattray, Mala Mala Reserve's owner

"It was hardly Africa." (438)

19 - The Hominids of Johannesburg

"I felt smaller and more disoriented here in this huge city than I had in the Elephant Marsh...athwart a dugout canoe and slapping my paddle at the water hyacinths." (397)

begins reflecting on trip - "it seems to me a safari that had been worth taking, an ideal picnic." (398)

pg 405: Nadine Gordimer's bio - he meets up with her

"how nice it would be, I thought, if someone reading the narrative of my African trip felt...it was the next best thing to being there." (406)

I find myself tired of this journey, anxious for its end - I know he wants the reader to feel "as if they were there," but I don't think this reader-fatigue was what he had in mind

pg 412: he almost goes to a soccer match but instead talks to another ex-prisoner - I wanted the soccer match! and I could hardly pay attention afterward, regretting his decision! (though there was a riot there, he finds later)

history of Robben Island - prison and prisoners

runs across some paleontologists - including Lee Berger (In the Footsteps of Eve) who theorizes humans first existed and survived as cooperative fishermen - perhaps the most intriguing person Theroux met, to me

18 - THhe Bush Border Bus to South Africa

city lights, signs for IBM, Day's Inn

17 - Invading Drummand's Farm

notes the crazed president Mugabe

met Minister of Tourism and asked about the farm invasions - Minister asks Theroux to "portray the positive aspects of life here." (379)

Theroux bravely meets with some land invaders

16 - River Safari to the Coast

pg 344: "In my weakened state I felt irritable and contrary and persecuted."

pg 345: aid workers "...a maintenance crew on a power trip."

now comes the adventure: paddling down a river

pg 350: this is Theroux's style - he maintains a wide view, never really zooming in (Thubron did this more, focused in on a scene) - for example, he breezes through the paddling trip prep and even the trip itself

pg 353: Portuguese Mozambique - a little history (sertanejos took over) - plus he mentions Livingstone a lot

pg 356: "No hyenas, lots of ghosts!" someone says

AND: "Do you ever think about the president?"
"No. Because he never thinks about me," he said.

pg 358: "And I thought: In countries where all the crooked politicians wear pin-striped suits, the best people are bare-assed." (repeated at end)

- funny, he compares his 'men' with another white man's

history of Portuguese-Mozambican relationship - wars and civil wars - landmines

Saturday, July 12, 2008

15 - The Road Back to Soche Hill School

pg 321: reveals what got him kicked out of PC (he adds that the complete story is in his essay "The Killing of Hastings Banda" in Sunrise with Seamonsters.

pg 322: a former student now teaches - "That had been on of my more modest goals." exactly

of his youth in Malawi - pg 324: "I had learned what many others had discovered before me, that Africa for all its perils represented wilderness and possibility. Not only did I have freedom to write in Africa, I had something new to write about."

pg 325: compares aid workers to safari-tourists

he joined PC to avoid the draft

he liked the rawness, the possibility

pg 326: "I liked the sweet somnolence of rural Africa, which I regarded with a sense of safety."

pg 328: "Aid is one of the main reasons for underdevelopment in Africa." - Dr. Jonathan Banda

pg 330: visits his old school and home - both in bad shape

* I think if we returned to Timor any time soon the family would shout and jump and run to meet us

he has been forgotten, compares himself to a ghost, and that may have just pissed him off, though he doesn't admit it

pg 335: "You're planting a seed! some people had said. But the seed had not sprouted and now it was decayed and probably moribund."

pg 336: "I did not know the answer, I didn't even know the question." - he feels he had clarity that only "Africans could fix their problems."

he ends by feeling physically sick

14 - Through the Outposts of the Plateau

ribbing of man who calls him "white man"

Malawi was where he served as a PCV and got the clap, apparently

he wants to spend his 60th b-day teaching at his old school

vows never to ride small buses again (299)

pg 300: potholes are speed bumps - but on good roads, they speed - vans are overstuffed (301)

pg 306: realizes his "teaching gift" to Malawi "was nothing special." like the charity vehicles he passed

pg 310: Theroux complains about the rain and an African says that's because he's a Westerner; Africans love the rain - Theroux decides: "This seemed to me a pretty fair assessment of cultural difference." - funny

pg 311: meets a long time aid worker - Theroux asks her what will happen when she leaves: "They'll just die," she says. Perhaps this is the core chapter...

pg 315: "What went wrong here?' - "In other countries I was a detached observer, but absurd as it seemed, I took the Malawian situation personally."

- this is the chapter where he feels the most, puts forth the most emotion - perhaps why I was annoyed with the read at other times: he's just a passerby, little attachment, just an observer (but can a travel writer do otherwise? Thubron didn't get emotional much either, but his book was good. Perhaps it was his interest in the people, the culture, the history - he felt a need to understand and the reader could tell. Theroux did have a sort of bond with the continent, too, though he showed it by being, well, a wiener

met with ambassador - he did not like Theroux's passionate jabs

13 - The Kilaminjaro Express to Mbaya

he boards another train - its Chinese history - and a woman reading one of his books

the woman and her husband and a Finnish friend drink with him - the Finnish woman has a memorable scene where she says that her mission to alleviate AIDS has failed

pg 285: harasses aid workers again - this and the topic that Africa can take care of itself is repeated over and over as if it is new

pg 286-7: "...dark star image in my mind, in which everyone existed as a sort of shadow-counterpart of someone in the brighter world."

sense of danger as he rides a minivan to town - then takes a taxi to the Malawi border, where he walks through

12 - The Bush Train to Dar es Salam

pg 252: in Tanzania "This was another haunted border post...that the safari-going tourists who flew into the international airport at Arusha would never see."

*the water - Bill said even the bottled water that wasn't Aque Se was not to be trusted

watched pick up soccer kids pg 153-4

*when I go to write about soccer in Timor - Rainbow Field, the girls, the Ministry game - I should include why I love the sport, how easily I am drawn to it, participate in it - should I start by writing this chapter?

Theroux put it nicely: "By any reckoning, these children were playing and laughing in one of the more desperate provinces of a semi-derelict country."

pg 261: Heart of Darkness put forth the wide-spread belief that Africans were cannibals - not true, Theroux says

11 - The MV Umoja Across Lake Victoria

lots of dialogue and scenes

his most memorable scene becomes mine, a man studying in the ferry boat's engine room "to boost his academic qualifications" (246-7) - I can see this is an essay on its own - one lasting image that embodies the trip

10 - Old Friends in Bat Valley

pg 206: in Uganda "I reflected that a person who has not crossed an African border on foot has not really entered the country, for the airport in the capital is no more than a confidence trick; the distant border, what appears to be the edge, is the country's central reality."

* Thubron and Theroux are experienced, wizened old travelers - the PCVs are green and naive, seeing things for the first time - this should be stressed in the writing

I thought today that my book is my reflection on the events today, including my life as it is and the writing process, sorting out feelings as I relive scenes, etc.

compares his age to Africans - "In Africa no one's lifetime was long enough to accomplish anything substantial" (208)

"The older traveler knows it best: in our hearts we are youthful and we are insulted to be treated as old men and burdens, for we have to come to know that the years have made us more powerful and certainly streetwise. Years are not an affliction - old age is strength." (208-9)


Uganda was where he taught in college - so we we get his memories (210)

pg 211: grasshoppers taste "better than white ants." according to a native

prostitution followed aid workers (212)

*PCVs - how powerful yet weak, how brave yet frightened - I was somewhere in the middle

pg 222-3: he buys beers and fries for three prostitutes and chats with them - he loves mingling with the "real people"

he is emotionally invested in Africa (235)

9 - Rift Valley Days

modern day tales of horror - murder and theft - as opposed to Thubron's telling of past Chinese horrors

compares Nairobi today to Dickens' London (186)

scorns "Tourist Africa" and "sentimental memoirists" including Hemingway (190-1)

meets a Kenyan writer, ex prisoner

on a bus he passes a town where there once lived a priest who tried to reveal the government's crimes - (200) - "Tourists would see only those lovely birds and know nothing of Father Kaiser or the dark forces in Kenya that had undone him."

*I think that is the theme here - correcting misconceptions, getting to the heart of the continent, the truth of the matter - he wants to see it for himself, but we get to see it too

history/geography of volcanoes, fault lines

the places he revisits - "the sparsely inhabited bush had become populous and visibly nasty." (201)

"I wondered...why had so little progress been made?" (202)

books on poor aid work: Graham Hancock's The Lords of Poverty, a book by Michael Maren, Sergio Polizzotti and Daniele Fanciulacci

coffin-making and happiness (204)

would I call his writing unapologetic?

I did some quick research and found Theroux wrote of traveling through China more once - and once while Thubron was there - would be interesting to compare

8 - Figawi Safari on the Bandit Road

Northern Kenya on the road South: "Buses did not operate on this north-south road." (157)

a description of the ride and roads that I can relate to (158)

after a flat tire, he rides an the top of a truck

"He said in English, 'They do not want your life, bwana, they want your shoes.'" (163)

he meets two young aid workers - berates them, though he admits he shouldn't have (165-6)

he begins a trip with some English tour guides and their Western crew - I know this will be bad (168)

pg 172: interesting: Theroux likes to get Biblical with people - does so with a "missionary of the Full Gospel Church" - a Kikuyu woman who makes them dinner - he speaks Swahili - a good thing, like Thubron's Mandarin

pg 176: hates Westerners - American aid workers won't give him a lift - he curses them

pg 179: decides to leave tour group - "I had seen items in travel magazines all the time advertising 'Overland Africa - Experience the Adventure.' And now I knew what this adventure entailed." - "After months of trucking in Africa everyone on board has the dull torpid smile and brain-damaged look of a cultist."

7 - The Longest Road in Africa

history of rail from Nairobi to Cape Town - he still had to get to Nairobi

runs across illegal ivory - hears that diplomats buy it

pg 132: amazing story of an Ethiopian who translated Gone with the Wind while in jail - other stories follow

finds a ride with traders

stops in Shashemene, Rasta capital

pg 149: pineapple in Amharic and Italian AND tetum: ananas

maybe this isn't so bad, just different

mentions meningitis scare

lost appetite: "being among so many hungry people had killed my appetite." (152) - ate one meal a day

in the borderlands "artful dodgers" (154)

Unlike, Thubron, Theroux is seeking out danger - doing it the hard way, and proud of it - Sure, Thubron traveled on trains and buses and boats and stayed in crappy hotels, ate the food, slept outdoors, hikes alone - but Africa is a lion and China a tortoise in comparison

touching connection with Tadelle and Wolde, Wolde cries at departure - not sure how Theroux felt

6 - The Djibouti Line to Harar

off to Harar, Ethiopia, because Rimbaud, a man who forsook the West, once lived there

history of area

hitched with nun, gets her story

Hararis distrusted foreigners - superstitious

pg 111: begins a tale - though confusing as to whether it's his or not - then we see it's Rimbaud's

he wanders in the town, sees a Sheik in a house, chews with him, visits the nun, meets a Red Cross worker

pg 121-2: Harar - hyena relationship

pg 124: he calls Harar the Anti-west - "nothing of home here" - he liked that: "Being in Africa was like being on a dark star."

5 - The Osama Road to Nubia

perhaps more engaging scene -he is in a tent, naked, in the desert and an unexpected rain appears - why can't he do this more often and in more interesting experiences?

Osama bin Laden discussed, history

where Thubron made a point to converse with strangers, Theroux just jokes with them (pgs 76-7), an anti-American man curses American presidents and Theroux gives him a soda

visits an empty school and a well

pg 81: "The greatest part of my satisfaction was animal pleasure..." being alone outdoors

explores pyramids - history of dynamite-tomb raider

invited to meet a VIP - late-night conversations give Theroux good feelings

4 - The Dervishes of Omdurman

talks to Ihab on plane - about female circumcision - Ihab thinks it's sexy

talks to 20 year olds about war - American/Sudanese/Afghani and Sudan's civil war

met a landmine expert - notes all the aid workers in his hotel - pg 63: "Charities and aid programs seemed to turn African problems into permanent conditions that were bigger and messier."

he is turned on by a veiled woman who shows some henna-laced leg as she bends over, pg 64: "That sight made the day seem hotter." The near-tastelessness of the comment mixed with the cliche turned me off, cooled me down

history of British-Sudanese war relations - Winston Churchill was a journalist there

witnesses dancing dervishes - "revivalist prayer meeting" meets "village exorcism"

3 - Up and Down the Nile

cruises down Nile, visits defaced ruins

Moses and Jews questions

says Flaubert, who he quotes often, is his model

he talks about writing often - gives the read both a conversational and condescending tone

interesting - he considers the tourists on his boat part of the Egyptian experience - good eye, pg 50

pg 51: "A travel narrative [is] the story of There and Back." he reflects on his slow travel

moves from memory to memory

pg 54: "Travel is at best accidental, and you can't explain improvisation."

visa to Sudan - American consul general warns him that an American was kidnapped and mock-executed

2 - The Mother of the World

starts with odd weather forecast: Dust - and goes straight into Egyptian history - focusing on how its obelisks and ruins have been stolen and used by foreigners for centuries

"It was obvious they were hoping to make a buck but at least they had the grace to do it with a smile." (7)

attempts at humor, pg 8

pgs 8-9: seems to belittle his tour guide - who is pestering him for money - though I find I don't despise the guide as much as Theroux

big on history - sphinx's real Egyptian names, pg 10

pg 11: "the Internet and out age of information has destroyed the pleasure of discovery in travel." - grumpy bugger

at a dinner party everyone talked bad of the continent

focused chapter on his time-passing - going to a salon, museums

1 - Lighting Out

(I took 17 pages of notes - here goes...)

begins by telling us why he made the trip: "I wanted the pleasure of being in Africa again." and that he sat down to write it a year later - sums it all up and says, "Such a paragraph needs some explanation - at least a book; this book perhaps." (1)

this seems to be quite the ambitious travel book - 500 pages - can he keep my interest for so long?

Africa's gotten worse - imagines his old Africa in the upheaval of the 90's

pg 3: "The wish to disappear sends many travellers away..." He wants to escape cell phones and emails - curious reason but understandable

pg 4: best and pettiest reasons to go: discovery and escape

Saturday, June 28, 2008

Thubron: Write This Way

This was a breath of fresh air. Inspiring and instructive. Engaging and thought-provoking. Thubron weaves his knowledge of China with his journey.

Thubron is an experienced travel writer, perhaps a master. He researched his destination, research which guided his journey, and he learned Mandarin beforehand, which allowed him to converse with the people and understand them - and they in turn asked questions about him and where he came from.

For example, near the end Thubron talks with an old friends who is unhappily married; he can't let go of a girl he loved in his youth. In this exotic and so-different country Thubron has found a story that we completely understand here in the West. It draws us closer yet farther away - since we realize how different his world is from ours.

There are a few people he plans to meet, but me meets many random people along the way. The one that stood out to me came near the end. An old man called Old Wang by a passer-by invites Thubron to his house and shows him a tablet for his three-months dead wife. Thubron sees the old man's grief:

"Suddenly his face was contorted by mingled sorrow and bitterness, held in by a heart-rending laughter. 'We Chinese have a saying: "All that is born must die". But that doesn't stop this...this...' - he turned his forefinger against his body, insinuating it between his torn jacket, drilling inside - '...this grief.'

"In the naked room, with the single bulb slung in its doorway, his imagined loneliness was unbearable. I wanted to touch him, but remained inert." (286)

Thubron's retelling of his time with the grieving old Wang is so moving it drove me to tears contemplating death and the afterlife. That is good writing.

Thubron wrote a beautiful account of his journey - beautiful writing - descriptions of the smoggy and overcrowded cities and of the forgotten temples and shrines, descriptions of the ugly and beautiful people (physical and character descriptions). He is so good at describing the people he meets in a few lines:

"Over this eyrie presided Hua's mother. She had been half paralyzed by a series of strokes a decade before, and she looked even older than her eighty-eight years. Her hand, when I took it, was a cold hook. Her hair was coiled in a grey pigtail, clipped to the back of her head by a huge iron paper-clip, and her nose sank so flat that its bridge completely vanished, and seemed to place her eyes on collision course...She settled watchfully on the sofa, smoking out of a box of two hundred cigarettes...[she] was suddenly, uncontrollably laughing. She rocked up and down on the sofa with short, guttural, mocking coughs. 'When I laugh I can't stop...I don't know why.' She massaged her throat. '...I just can't stop.'" (103-4)

Thubron also uses speculation well:

"Then [the man with no children] fell silent. For another hour, drifting down the canal, we went on peering into other people's lives in their kitchens: lives that seemed at once more humdrum and more mysterious than my own, and perhaps which appeared happy to him." (133)

I also enjoy that he tries to see himself as the people he meets see him. I think this inclusion shows me that he was much more than a traveler passing through, but a person trying to communicate with other people; I enjoy this personal contact (I wonder if Theroux will do the same in Africa). An example:

'Momentarily I saw myself in his eyes - taller than anyone he had ever met, uncannily pale-haired, and fattened by the mystery called England. Inexplicably I was in his rubber grove.' (222)

Then again, Thubron sometimes feels like a humorous tour guide. And his humor comes here and there, not over-done. For example, he gets himself into humorous situations - going to a public bath that is too hot for him, visiting a marriage bureau where they mistake him for a groom-to-be and meeting a doctor who shows him his wall of model tongues.

Perhaps the most humorous part was when he writes of the time his exhaustion played out in his partially-remembered conversation with an enthusiastic vet:

'Shack-es-peer is famous in our country. He wrote fifty plays...The Western languages all come from Latin, don't they?...We're new friends, aren't we?...Western history begins with Jesus...

''I relieved my fury by making faces at him in the dark.' (227-8)

As you can see, I have only good things to say about the book. I am inspired. If it was my intention to write a paper that aims to pinpoint what makes good -and bad - Peace Corps memoir, then I would surely write that writing like Thubron would make a great memoir.

I acknowledge that Thubron is an experienced travel writer and that comparing his work to that of first-time Peace Corps writers is unfair. Perhaps a first-timer can only dream of writing as well. But perhaps if this writer took note of what Thubron does well - his writing is well-researched, he seamlessly entwines history and the present, he sprinkles the book with humor and honesty, he describes the people and places well and economically and he makes sure he focuses on one-on-one, personal interactions - then s/he can produce something quite good.

I can only hope to come close.

Chapter 12: The Last Gate Under Heaven

pg 284: he is very good at describing people - he has to be, since he meets so many

his retelling of his time with the grieving old Wang is so moving it drove me insane contemplating death and the afterlife

visits a family bearing a gift - he has done this before but does explain why

surprisingly abrupt ending - no reflection, just the end as he gazes around him at the end of the Great Wall

Chapter 11: China's Sorrow

tries to visit old Jewish settlement - nothing left

finds a married couple - he American, she Chinese - she said no one understood and they were sure she was in danger - xonophobia - though she admits she may leave him first!

visits Shaolin monastery, birthplace of Zen and kung fu

history, myths of kung fu monks

met with a man he met on an earlier trip to China - he is now unhappily married - he does not love his wife but a girl he loved in youth (this could happen to anyone anywhere - at least in America or the West I'm sure - but it is in China where they don't talk about their feelings and follow tradition - so I understand but can't quite understand because it is in a vastly different culture)

history of Qin Shihuangdi - first emperor, China's namesake - buried with terracotta legions, model empire - much detail (I just read about them in Dillard's For the Time Being)

Chapter 10: Through the Gorges

pg 226: 'Almost everyone who has travelled for long alone in China becomes prey to an insidious attrition.' He was wearing thin

his exhaustion plays out wonderfully in his partially-remembered conversation with an enthusiastic vet: pg 227-8:

'Shack-es-peer is famous in our country. He wrote fifty plays...The Western languages all come from Latin, don't they?...We're new friends, aren't we?...Western history begins with Jesus...'

'I relieved my fury by making faces at him in the dark.'

he met a man raised by American mother - she raised him to be kind, much kinder than his fellow Chinese, he said - he did not fully understand them and vice-versa - signals enormous gulf of understanding between the West and China

Chapter 9: The Land of Peacocks

encounters Dai and other tribes of the south

a skinny and poor farmer finds Thubron and concludes that England must be a good place if it makes people as healthy-looking as he

*I think this inclusion of how Thubron imagines himself through Chinese eyes and what they admit to him shows me that he was much more than a traveler passing through, but a person trying to communicate with other people; I enjoy this personal contact (I wonder if Theroux will do the same in Africa)

*(though this is not related to the book) don't talk to me of feeling fortunate to be an American - don't go there - don't assume you have it made

pg 222: wonderful moment where he again tries to see himself in other's eyes: 'Momentarily I saw myself in his eyes - taller than anyone he had ever met, uncannily pale-haired, and fattened by the mystery called England. Inexplicably I was in his rubber grove.'

pg 225: observant, aware - 'To the south, beyond a profile of hills, the moon was rising over Burma, with a wheeling mass of unfamiliar stars.'

Friday, June 27, 2008

Chapter 8: Mao Slept Here

he is seen releasing the owl - cultural faux pax

pg 195: no one knows where England is; when he describes the animals there a man says 'Cows and sheep. That's why he looks like that. So big.'

pg 197: gets to sleep in Mao's hotel room; he is extra-conscious; the hotel, as an unpopular tourist site, was nearly empty; later he feels staying in Mao's room was 'sacrilege' and a 'too-big sarcophagus'

he visits Mao's childhood home; I find that, even though I know very little Chinese history, I am engaged, awed by Mao; though I'm unclear on some things, like the Great Leap Forward (I later looked it up)

*engaging, thought-provoking - that, more than mere lyricality or exotic topics, is what makes reading pleasurable - Yes, art poses questions rather than answers them

compares scenes to scenes in his other travels (Stalin's home in Russia to Mao's home), reflects on the Chinese need to label - Three Antis, Five Tests, Four Pests

pg 204: in another shoddy hotel: '...the elaborate patterns on the curtains turned out to be whorls of grime.' Funny

pg 207: talks to young woman about misnomers: West=demons, China=too many small people

pg 209: brave camper: 'The endless shrilling of the cicadas became the sound of the stars turning across the sky.' Beautiful

Chapter 7: Canton

pg 177: the different languages he heard - "I became restless with feelings of exlusion.'

I realize that Thubron answers all the questions I would have asked before I even thought to ask them

Thubron sees his expectations are wrong in Canton, pg 179

self-deprecating humor, pg 181-2

can't eat the cat or snake soups - funny - reminds me of Bill Bryson

book store, storyteller in the park

at 'fresh' market he buys a beautiful owl meant to be eaten and takes it to his hotel room for the night

Chapter 6: To the South

* important: an occupied people (Portuguese in Timor, Dutch, English in SE Asia) and new independence (Angola, Indo, India, Macao...)

pg 171: humor - 'I told myself that the dirt on my chopsticks was a discoloration of the wood, or so ingrained as to be harmlessly immovable.'

pg 174-5 a little seasickness

*I am realizing how much I like Thubron' style, choices - lyrical and historical - Annie Dillard-esque?

Chapter 5: Shanghai

*tell history of Timor and parallel events in America, Africa, Europe, China, etc...'while the Portuguese were (blank), the Pilgrims were (blank).

Thubron met a vicar who says the past will never repeat - this has become a story of hope?

visited a prison - the prisoners were happy there

another difference from PCVs is a job - they have one - the traveler writer's is only to write

mental institution - Chinese 'internalize' everything

pg 158-161: Thubron saw something in paintings by those inside - things the doctors seemed to look over - a naked woman indifferently holding a tiny man in her hand

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

Chapter 4: To the Nine Flower Mountain

begins with a quest to visit the grave of his favorite Chinese poet, Li Bai

He meets Jianming, who follows him everywhere; when Thubron tries to tell him to leave: pg 114: "I told him that I needed to be alone, that I was of a sad and solitary disposition. I stared at the ceiling like an anchorite. He said: 'I'll cheer you up!'

pg 115: tries to see himself through the gawker's eyes

pg 177: 'I felt the traveller's guilt at collecting incompatible friends, companions of circumstance. Remorsefully I sought for ways of giving him money...'

pg 121: Thubron talks to a young monk; he uses much detail, dialogue and even facial expressions and clothing - which I am sure he noted within a few hours of the event for the purpose of writing this book - PVCs must rely on memory to fill the wide gaps in their journals (as all memoirs must)

witnesses mass for the dead

pg 130: he talks to a man on a boat; the man does not have any children: "With us the greatest crime is to leave no children behind you." - just like in Africa

pg 131: (before the break) Thubron likes to speculate - that's the best we can do, isn't it?

compares history of places to now

Thubron hates that the once serene gardens are now tourist spots - he whines

Chapter 3: Over the Yangtze

train ride - history of trains in China and of the cities he passes

on a bus a 'conductress' gave Thubron her seat so he had to operate the door

pg 74: he runs across a young girl who wishes to study Early Medieval Sculpture in the US - he reflects on how he took for granted the places she'll never see and ends by noting a youth chasing a lizard to eat

present at unveiling of Confucius' new statue

dispelling myths at Confucius' tomb - pg 84-5

*Men go to war to prove themselves to themselves." -ATC story

at another mausoleum talking to a random guy about the West

at a hospital? acupuncture?

briefly meets a metaparanoid Frenchman

on a school tour he is not impressed with the machine-like presentations but connects with a young girl who accompanies him

visits a Protestant Church and talks with a priest, they talk about religion and 'The Gang of Four'

*these writings are meant to take the reader where they've never been (or to help them see in a different way something they have seen) - the point is to make it worth the reader's while

at a friend's family's - already I feel I know the characters - the 'sexual predator' in a white gown, the beautiful woman with the hyperactive child she pushes away - he uses action and physical description (it ends with the boy tugging on his penis and Hua - the predator - laughs)

pg 103-4: great description of Hua's frail old mother